Well, it was - big wave surfing was my job. And I had to accomplish some great feat every year. And we… — Garrett McNamara Copy Share Image
I keep trying to listen when I'm in a big wave, but I really don't hear anything. — Garrett McNamara Copy Share Image
So, when you come down a big wave and everything's perfect, you make it to the shoulder and you kick out. But,… — Garrett McNamara Copy Share Image
I used to not care if I died, but once I married and had children and became part of a big surfing community, that… — Garrett McNamara Copy Share Image
The surfers' code is that you surf your wave and let the world discuss it as you move on to the next one. — Garrett McNamara Copy Share Image
Fear is when we're thinking about the past or thinking about the future, two things that do not exist. If we stay in the… — Garrett McNamara Copy Share Image
I lose my mind if I miss a swell that I want to be on and I have the ability to be on it. — Garrett McNamara Copy Share Image
The ocean is my church and my playground, and it's where I love to be. It's where I belong. — Garrett McNamara Copy Share Image
There's giant waves in numerous occasions around the world, it's a matter of the wind being offshore. — Garrett McNamara Copy Share Image
The first time I tried surfing, we went out in front of Cement City and I just remember falling in love. It just instantly… — Garrett McNamara Copy Share Image
I lived for big waves. It's where I felt comfortable and I could surf with ease. With smaller waves, it didn't feel as natural. — Garrett McNamara Copy Share Image
It never happens in Europe, and I'm not sure how often it happens here in Australia, but in Hawaii and all over the United… — Garrett McNamara Copy Share Image
I had gotten too comfortable. I was desensitized whenever I got in the water. I started riding big waves for that rush, but now… — Garrett McNamara Copy Share Image
