““Up until the nineteenth century, the oyster was thought to be a simple primitive creature. We like to think this of the creatures we eat, especially the ones we pop into our mouths whole and raw. But it turns out that the oyster has a brain and a nervous system. In the words of the nineteenth-century British Darwinsist Thomas Huxley, ‘I suppose that when the sapid and slippery morsel – which is gone like a flash of gustatory summer lightning – glides along the palate, few people imagine that they are swallowing a piece of machinery (and going machinery) greatly more complicated than a watch.””