So, when you come down a big wave and everything's perfect, you make it to the shoulder and you kick out. But, when you come down and it closes out or you fall on the way down, then this massive,… — Garrett McNamara Copy Share Image
I used to not care if I died, but once I married and had children and became part of a big surfing community, that… — Garrett McNamara Copy Share
The surfers' code is that you surf your wave and let the world discuss it as you move on to the next one. — Garrett McNamara Copy Share
Fear is when we're thinking about the past or thinking about the future, two things that do not exist. If we stay in the… — Garrett McNamara Copy Share
I lose my mind if I miss a swell that I want to be on and I have the ability to be on it. — Garrett McNamara Copy Share
The ocean is my church and my playground, and it's where I love to be. It's where I belong. — Garrett McNamara Copy Share
There's giant waves in numerous occasions around the world, it's a matter of the wind being offshore. — Garrett McNamara Copy Share
The first time I tried surfing, we went out in front of Cement City and I just remember falling in love. It just instantly… — Garrett McNamara Copy Share
I lived for big waves. It's where I felt comfortable and I could surf with ease. With smaller waves, it didn't feel as natural. — Garrett McNamara Copy Share
It never happens in Europe, and I'm not sure how often it happens here in Australia, but in Hawaii and all over the United… — Garrett McNamara Copy Share
I had gotten too comfortable. I was desensitized whenever I got in the water. I started riding big waves for that rush, but now… — Garrett McNamara Copy Share
