I'm hurtling down bumpy, choppy water very close to being out of control, doing everything I can to stay on my board. One misstep and you're going to get squashed by tons of water. To not get hurt, I need… — Garrett McNamara Copy Share Image
When I'm riding a wave and making it, it's just like, 'Alright, yeah, another wave.' But when you're getting pounded and thrown in every direction, when you have no control, you really feel alive. — Garrett McNamara Copy Share Image
I used to not care if I died, but once I married and had children and became part of a big surfing community, that… — Garrett McNamara Copy Share Image
The surfers' code is that you surf your wave and let the world discuss it as you move on to the next one. — Garrett McNamara Copy Share Image
Fear is when we're thinking about the past or thinking about the future, two things that do not exist. If we stay in the… — Garrett McNamara Copy Share Image
I lose my mind if I miss a swell that I want to be on and I have the ability to be on it. — Garrett McNamara Copy Share Image
The ocean is my church and my playground, and it's where I love to be. It's where I belong. — Garrett McNamara Copy Share Image
There's giant waves in numerous occasions around the world, it's a matter of the wind being offshore. — Garrett McNamara Copy Share Image
The first time I tried surfing, we went out in front of Cement City and I just remember falling in love. It just instantly… — Garrett McNamara Copy Share Image
I lived for big waves. It's where I felt comfortable and I could surf with ease. With smaller waves, it didn't feel as natural. — Garrett McNamara Copy Share Image
