I'm not an adrenaline junkie; I won't jump out of aeroplanes and I'm afraid of horses. I just love surfing. — Garrett McNamara Copy Share Image
I tend to get overly excited and want to just go. I just love, love big waves. — Garrett McNamara Copy Share Image
I've probably had the worst wipeouts in surfing, and I've enjoyed every one of them. — Garrett McNamara Copy Share Image
Surfing is cleansing, pure and beautiful; it's where I feel most comfortable. — Garrett McNamara Copy Share Image
I caught every wave I wanted and I fell in love with big waves at 16 years old. Then it just was… — Garrett McNamara Copy Share Image
It's so amazing to just be in the water, surfing with your friends. — Garrett McNamara Copy Share Image
I used to not care if I died, but once I married and had children and became part of a big surfing… — Garrett McNamara Copy Share Image
I'd always surfed with my ego - I had to get the biggest, best wave - and a lot of it was… — Garrett McNamara Copy Share Image
Well, it was - big wave surfing was my job. And I had to accomplish some great feat every year. And we… — Garrett McNamara Copy Share Image
The first time I tried surfing, we went out in front of Cement City and I just remember falling in love. It… — Garrett McNamara Copy Share Image
I've been soulsearching: why do I do this? Because I don't really get the rush on these waves, and I don't surf… — Garrett McNamara Copy Share Image
I used to not care if I died, but once I married and had children and became part of a big surfing community, that… — Garrett McNamara Copy Share
The surfers' code is that you surf your wave and let the world discuss it as you move on to the next one. — Garrett McNamara Copy Share
Fear is when we're thinking about the past or thinking about the future, two things that do not exist. If we stay in the… — Garrett McNamara Copy Share
I lose my mind if I miss a swell that I want to be on and I have the ability to be on it. — Garrett McNamara Copy Share
The ocean is my church and my playground, and it's where I love to be. It's where I belong. — Garrett McNamara Copy Share
There's giant waves in numerous occasions around the world, it's a matter of the wind being offshore. — Garrett McNamara Copy Share
The first time I tried surfing, we went out in front of Cement City and I just remember falling in love. It just instantly… — Garrett McNamara Copy Share
I lived for big waves. It's where I felt comfortable and I could surf with ease. With smaller waves, it didn't feel as natural. — Garrett McNamara Copy Share
It never happens in Europe, and I'm not sure how often it happens here in Australia, but in Hawaii and all over the United… — Garrett McNamara Copy Share
I had gotten too comfortable. I was desensitized whenever I got in the water. I started riding big waves for that rush, but now… — Garrett McNamara Copy Share
